Casa Juani: A Culinary Journey Through Spain in Boulder
For several years, Boulder residents have savored the culinary artistry of Chef Eduardo Valle Lobo at the esteemed Frasca Food and Wine. Now, with the opening of Casa Juani, located at 901 Pearl St., they have the opportunity to indulge in the flavors that shaped Valle Lobo’s youth in Spain. This new venture is not just a restaurant; it’s a heartfelt homage to his mother, who served as his culinary “north star.”
A Tribute to Family and Tradition
Casa Juani is named after Valle Lobo’s mother, whose traditional Spanish dishes inspired him throughout his life. The restaurant spans an impressive 5,300 square feet and is designed around the concept of a marisquería, a traditional seafood and shellfish bar. Here, diners can enjoy raw offerings like sea urchin and razor clams, showcasing the rich maritime heritage of Spanish cuisine.
Valle Lobo emphasizes the significance of seafood in Spanish culture, highlighting the diverse ingredients sourced from the Atlantic Ocean, Mediterranean Sea, and the Cantabrian Sea. “We have different varieties, a lot of choices, a lot of different ingredients,” he explains, showcasing crystal shrimp that transform into a sweet, crispy delicacy. His mother’s influence is palpable, as she frequently prepared fish for the family, instilling a deep appreciation for this key component of their culinary tradition.
Culinary Techniques and Unique Offerings
One of the standout features of Casa Juani is the special grill imported from Spain, specifically designed for cooking fish. Valle Lobo prepares the seafood simply, using garlic oil and verjus to enhance the natural flavors. “It’s very classic. Very, very umami. And it’s super delicious,” he notes, emphasizing the beauty of simplicity in cooking.
In a playful twist, one of the dishes mimics a piece of nigiri, featuring rice topped with Iberico secreto and langoustine, all wrapped in nori. Valle Lobo describes this approach as “not fine dining, but fun dining,” aiming to create an atmosphere where guests can enjoy delicious food without the constraints of strict dining protocols.
Foundational Spanish Dishes
The menu at Casa Juani is a celebration of foundational Spanish cuisine. Guests can expect to find croquetas made with goat milk, chopped Iberico ham, and scallions, as well as tortilla Española served with alioli. Valle Lobo also pays homage to his mother’s marinated olives, prepared simply with paprika, olive oil, orange, thyme, and rosemary.
In addition to the marisquería offerings, the menu features heartier dishes like pato asado (grilled duck) and shareable plates such as pluma Iberico and dry-aged ribeye. Valle Lobo plans to adapt the menu seasonally, introducing classic stews and braises as the colder months approach.
Local Sourcing and Seasonal Ingredients
Casa Juani is committed to sourcing ingredients from local growers, aiming to incorporate seasonal produce like Padrón peppers into their dishes. The restaurant will also offer snack-sized items, including Gilda skewers, a Basque pintxo made with pickled pepper, olive, and anchovy. A chef’s table will feature a curated tasting menu, allowing guests to experience a range of flavors and textures.
Valle Lobo is already envisioning future dishes, including huevos rotos (fried eggs over potatoes and chorizo) and sea urchin with grape gelée. He expresses a desire to explore more adventurous ingredients, such as pig ears and tripe, as he continues to delve deeper into his culinary roots.
A Thoughtful Wine Selection
The wine selection at Casa Juani is curated by Frasca’s lead sommelier, Jeremy Schwartz. A glass showcase near the entrance displays around 80 wines from Spain, Portugal, France, and Italy, with 15 to 18 available by the glass. Valle Lobo believes that good food deserves good wine, stating, “I think it’s important to have different kinds of flavors, some rustic, some elegant.”
The restaurant also features a full bar, managed by Daniel Dirth, who previously worked with Jeun at Eleven Madison Park in New York. Dirth has crafted a cocktail list that offers classic drinks with a Spanish twist, further enhancing the dining experience.
Embracing Spanish Cuisine in Boulder
While Spanish cuisine may not yet hold the same prestige as French or Italian fine dining, Valle Lobo is optimistic about its reception in Boulder. “In Boulder, people are very well traveled. They know how to eat and drink. They are open to good food,” he remarks. For him, bringing the soul of his native cuisine to Boulder is a labor of love, one that transmits passion and warmth through every dish served at Casa Juani.
