Cote Basque: A New Chapter for Melbourne’s Beloved Becco Space
Cote Basque is set to breathe new life into the cherished Becco space on Crossley Street, opening its doors tomorrow. This transformation promises a dining experience that melds nostalgia with modern culinary flair. With a deep bar, dark wood paneling, and a charcoal grill at the heart of its kitchen, Cote Basque is ready to scorch steaks, seafood, and more, inviting diners to indulge in a fresh yet familiar atmosphere.
A Historic Venue Reimagined
The Crossley Street location has a rich history, first welcoming patrons in the 1950s as an extension of Pellegrini’s Espresso Bar. For nearly three decades, it was home to Becco, a beloved Italian restaurant known for its lively lunches and celebratory pasta dishes. Andrew McConnell, the culinary force behind Cote Basque, acknowledges the significance of this space. “It’s an important space for so many people,” he shares, recalling his own memories of enjoying cappuccinos at Pellegrini’s as a teenager.
The restaurant’s design pays homage to its storied past while introducing a contemporary touch. The mid-century green terrazzo floor has been restored, and the burnished cherrywood paneling adds warmth to the ambiance. A newly leather-lined bar invites patrons to enjoy a casual drink or a full meal, making every visit feel special.
Culinary Inspirations from the Basque Country
Cote Basque draws inspiration from the culinary traditions of the Basque Country, which spans northeastern Spain and southwestern France. McConnell’s first encounter with Basque cuisine was at the renowned Arzak Restaurant, a three-Michelin-star establishment. “It was my first real top-end restaurant in Europe,” he recalls, emphasizing the lasting impression it left on him.
The menu reflects McConnell’s deep appreciation for the region’s culinary ethos, featuring pintxos—snacks on sticks—and a focus on grilling techniques that highlight the natural flavors of the ingredients. “Outside of Japan, I don’t think there’s any country that handles seafood as well as Spain,” he notes, hinting at the seafood-centric offerings that will grace the menu.
A Menu Designed for Exploration
Head chef Allan Doert Eccles, a longtime collaborator with McConnell, brings his expertise to Cote Basque. The menu is intentionally concise, allowing for a more focused dining experience. “I’m excited about having a concise à la carte, giving us time and space to finesse,” McConnell explains. This streamlined approach is complemented by a spontaneous grill menu that changes daily, ensuring that each visit offers something new.
Among the standout dishes are the strawberry clams from New South Wales, celebrated for their delicate flavor, and royal red prawns served raw atop croutons with boudin custard and smoked tomato. The menu also features David Blackmore’s Rohne beef, a hybrid known for its exceptional marbling, promising a rich and satisfying dining experience.
Embracing Seasonal Ingredients
McConnell is equally enthusiastic about the vegetable offerings at Cote Basque. He recounts the excitement of roasting cipollini onions over the grill, which not only cooked but also infused the air with a smoky aroma. Seasonal ingredients will play a pivotal role in the menu, with dishes like roasted greens dressed in green caper sauce and artichokes paired with celeriac and marjoram.
As the seasons change, McConnell looks forward to incorporating fresh asparagus into the dishes, showcasing the best of what each season has to offer.
A Nod to Nostalgia
Cote Basque also pays homage to its predecessor with playful nods to the past. A Cosmopolitan cocktail, reminiscent of the 1990s, and a Monday veal cotoletta special serve as delightful throwbacks to Becco’s menu. These elements aim to create a sense of familiarity while inviting a new generation of diners to experience the space.
A Vision for Community Engagement
McConnell envisions Cote Basque as a vibrant addition to the local community, situated among other unique establishments like a tailor and a taco shop. “We want people to be comfortable to use the space as they wish,” he states, emphasizing the restaurant’s versatility. Whether it’s a quick espresso, a cocktail before a show, or a leisurely meal, Cote Basque aims to cater to all dining preferences.
A New Chapter for Trader House
Cote Basque marks the ninth restaurant for McConnell’s Trader House group, which also includes the popular Apollo Inn and several Meatsmith butcher shops. Despite the challenges posed by the pandemic and changing dining habits, McConnell remains optimistic about the future of Melbourne’s dining scene. “I think as an industry we have to encourage people to keep using it,” he asserts.
With plans to take over St Kilda’s Stokehouse in the spring, McConnell’s passion for the culinary arts remains unwavering. As he prepares for the opening of Cote Basque, he reflects on the joy of creating memorable dining experiences. “I enjoy working with our team, connecting with our customers,” he shares, embodying the spirit of hospitality that defines his approach.
Cote Basque opens its doors on Friday, August 7, inviting diners to embark on a culinary journey that celebrates the rich traditions of the Basque Country while honoring the legacy of a beloved Melbourne institution. Open daily for lunch and dinner, it promises to be a new favorite for both locals and visitors alike.
