Chilling Out in La Rioja
Recently, I had the pleasure of traveling from Madrid to San Sebastián, with a delightful three-day stop in the picturesque village of Briñas in La Rioja. Nestled in the heart of Spain’s renowned wine country, Briñas offers a serene escape, especially when staying at the beautiful Finca Torre de Briñas (doubles from €189 B&B).
Exploring Haro: A Wine Lover’s Paradise
A short 40-minute walk along the Ebro River leads you to Haro, a town celebrated for its rich wine heritage. Here, you can visit some of the largest wine producers in the region, such as CVNE and Muga. Both offer tastings that allow you to savor the unique flavors of La Rioja wines. After indulging in a few samples, the town center beckons with its charming tapas bars, perfect for refueling before the leisurely walk back to your hotel. The combination of stunning landscapes, exquisite wines, and delicious food creates a blissful experience that lingers long after you leave.
Forests and Badlands in Murcia
Just an hour’s drive from the bustling Murcia coast lies the majestic Sierra Espuña mountain range. This green oasis offers a refreshing respite from the summer heat and is home to a rewilding project that began over a century ago.
Hiking Through Nature’s Splendor
A morning hike through the shady Aleppo pine forests is a must. Afterward, we drove up a winding mountain road to explore the Pozos de la Nieve, a 16th-century ice storage facility. This cavernous interior once stored ice, which was transported by horse and cart to wealthy city dwellers during the summer months. On our return, we passed through the Barrancos de Gebas, a lunar landscape formed from ancient seabeds. The tranquility of this area, with few other visitors around, made it feel like our little secret.
Terraced Vineyards in Galicia’s Gorges
Our journey took an unexpected turn due to forest fires in the Picos mountains, leading us to the stunning Ribeira Sacra wine region in inland Galicia. Characterized by deep canyons carved by the Sil and Miño rivers, the steep banks are lined with terraced vineyards that thrive in this unique ecosystem.
A Day of Adventure and Relaxation
We spent our days swimming in waterfalls, sipping local wines, and wandering through the narrow terraces. A highlight was the hike to the Miradoiro de Souto Chao (the Grape Pickers’ Viewpoint), where breathtaking views of the tranquil landscape awaited us. With hardly any tourists in sight, it felt like a hidden gem waiting to be discovered.
A Fairytale Town in Navarre
Rising above the sparse landscape of Navarre province, Gallipienzo is a medieval settlement that feels straight out of a fairytale. Before embarking on the winding road to the old town, we took a refreshing dip in the Aragón River, a welcome relief after exploring the heat of Pamplona.
A Warm Welcome and Local Cuisine
Upon arrival at the Hotel Heredad Beragu (doubles from €109 B&B), we were greeted warmly by Patxi and Ramón, who transformed an old farmstead into a chic getaway. After a sunset stroll soaking in the views framed by rustic doorways, we enjoyed a locally sourced dinner, feeling quite smug about discovering this enchanting gateway to the past.
Bridge to the Basque Country
While the city of Bilbao is a popular destination, a short 25-minute train ride along the Nervión River takes you to Portugalete.
Culinary Delights and Historic Sites
Start your visit at the Crepería Miramar for a delightful coffee and a perfect tortilla. The café is located by the estuary, under the shadow of the stunning Vizcaya Bridge, the world’s oldest transporter bridge and a UNESCO World Heritage site. For just €1, you can take a ride across the bridge to Getxo, followed by a scenic walk around the bay to the charming fishing village of Algorta—a perfect day trip.
Exploring the Alpujarras Near Granada
Last month, I was thrilled to witness the almond blossoms while hiking the Ruta Medieval in the Alpujarran municipality of La Taha.
Navigating Nature’s Challenges
This year has brought its challenges, with landslides and fallen trees due to storms, making an app like Wikiloc essential for finding detours. If you don’t have a car, a bus stops at Pitres, the starting point for the waymarked trail along ancient cobbled paths through whitewashed Moorish villages clinging to the gorge created by the River Trevélez.
Scenic Routes and Local Culture
After reaching Ferreirola, you can choose between a strenuous climb through Atalbéitar to Pórtugos or a gentler route to Busquístar, both of which offer bus connections back to Pitres or onward to Órgiva or even Granada.
Medieval Gems in León
Arriving in Ponferrada on foot as part of our Camino de Santiago journey, we were greeted by the sight of the town’s impressive castle, reminiscent of a Disney fairytale.
A Rich Historical Experience
This castle, built by the Knights Templar, not only hosts mock-medieval pageants but also houses a stunning collection of manuscripts and maps. After our trek from the charming mountain village of El Acebo, we still had the energy to hike uphill to visit the tiny Romanesque church of Santo Tomás de las Ollas, which, for me, was worth every step.
A Spectacular Slow Rail Trip from Santander
After disembarking from the ferry at Santander, we hopped on a train along the narrow-gauge railway heading west.
Coastal Adventures Await
This slow and scenic route, formerly operated by Feve, takes you along the northern Spanish coast towards Oviedo and Ferrol. We made stops at coastal villages like Llanes and San Vicente, where we found great value accommodations, local wines, and excellent dining options. Viveiro was another highlight, with restaurants serving cloudy white wine in ceramic jugs alongside fresh seafood. The dramatic, lonely beaches added to the idyllic experience.
A Stunning Find Near Girona
The medieval town of Peratallada served as a peaceful base for exploring the Empordà region in September.
A Day in a Picturesque Setting
With its caramel-colored walls and arches adorned with vibrant bougainvillea, Peratallada is a sight to behold. Just a short trip from Girona, it’s worth dedicating more time to explore. Climbing the Torre de las Horas bell tower offers stunning views, and the welcoming shops, cafes, and restaurants make for a delightful day. Favorites include Restaurant La Roca and DO Candelaria.
Winning Tip: Hanging in Cuenca
In the mountains of Castilla-La Mancha, east of Madrid, lies the UNESCO World Heritage city of Cuenca.
A City of Spectacular Views
Perched on a plateau and surrounded by the Júcar and Huécar rivers, Cuenca boasts breathtaking vistas. A 4-mile circular hike through pine forests culminates in a stunning sunset over the medieval city. The Casas Colgadas (Hanging Houses) and a free abstract art museum add to the allure, making Cuenca a perfect off-the-beaten-path destination.
