Celebrating Fuerteventura’s Culinary Treasures: The Moray Eel
Fuerteventura, one of the stunning Canarian islands, boasts a rich culinary heritage that reflects both its geographical bounty and cultural influences. Among its gastronomic icons, the moray eel—a unique and intriguing seafood option—holds a special place in the hearts (and stomachs) of locals and tourists alike. This delicate creature, often paired with traditional products like gofio, goat meat, and Majorero cheese, provides a distinct personality to the island’s cuisine.
The Essence of Moray Eel Preparation
The moray eel, locally known as “morena,” shines brightest when prepared as a fried delicacy. Crispy on the outside and succulent on the inside, this dish features a delightful contrast between layers of lean meat, fat, and skin. However, the process of preparing moray can lead to as much disappointment as joy if not executed well. A poorly fried piece may emerge riddled with bones, making it a challenging culinary experience. To sidestep this issue, many chefs opt for “chips de morena,” a more refined version of the dish that offers a crispier, boneless alternative.
Maricarmen Martos, a skilled chef at El Ancla—her cozy establishment in El Cotillo—shares her expertise on preparing moray eel with enthusiasm. She emphasizes the importance of thorough cleaning and despinning, a meticulous task involving cutting the head, opening the eel, and removing the central bone along with lateral spines. Maricarmen distinguishes between two types of moray: the black moray, which is leaner, and the flavorful “rubia,” known for its higher fat content and preferred for chips.
Maricarmen’s Culinary Journey
With a culinary background that began at the age of 24 in Irún, Maricarmen’s path has been fueled by her passion for cooking since her teenage years. She recalls preparing meals for a family of eight at the tender age of 14, setting the stage for her future in the kitchen. Her preparation for her first job is a testament to her determination; when faced with the challenge of learning a new dish, she masterfully whipped up “lenguado meunière” after a quick study and turned her initial nerves into success.
After some years dedicated to motherhood, Maricarmen returned to the culinary scene with plans to further hone her skills. She accumulated valuable experiences at various establishments, including a popular pinchos bar in El Cotillo. Now at El Ancla, Maricarmen showcases not just moray eel but also a rich tapestry of flavors, from the diminutive yet tasty Fuerteventura shrimp to the quintessential papas arrugadas paired with flavorful mojo sauce. Her dishes reflect her Basque roots—stuffed peppers and confit cod included—infusing the local cuisine with her heritage.
The Perfect Pairings at El Ancla
Dining at El Ancla offers more than just a taste of the island; it’s a journey through Maricarmen’s memories and experiences, each dish telling a story. Alongside her specialties, patrons can savor “El Follón,” a unique “author wine” made from volcanic malvasía grapes by her partner, Domingo Martín. This exclusive wine, developed in a small winery located in Los Lajares, reflects Domingo’s passion for winemaking, an ambition that started long before El Ancla came to be.
Maricarmen and Domingo are also busy preparing the opening of their new restaurant, El Lío, which promises to focus on grilled fish dishes. Here, she envisions a harmonious pairing of her moray eel chips with Domingo’s white wine—a combination destined to please the palate.
Discovering Fuerteventura’s Flavorful Identity
As you explore the culinary landscape of Fuerteventura, the moray eel stands out not just for its unique flavor profile but also as a symbol of the island’s rich culinary traditions. From Maricarmen’s well-crafted dishes at El Ancla to the enticing new offerings at El Lío, there is much to discover in the vibrant food scene. Each bite is a testament to the island’s identity, celebrating both heritage and innovation.
