Volcanic Shores, Atlantic Winds, and Secret Turquoise Lagoons
Fuerteventura rises from the Atlantic like a sunburnt mirage, an island shaped by volcanoes, wind, and centuries of ocean travel. Closer to Africa than mainland Europe, this scorching sea-battered Canary Island is defined by black lava, endless dunes, and impossibly blue waters. Its landscape is raw, rugged, and gloriously dramatic, with beaches that transition from wild Atlantic beauty to tranquil Caribbean calm. The climate remains delightfully straightforward—warm year-round, typically accompanied by breezy conditions. This is precisely why Northern Europeans flock here in droves.
This Spanish-owned island, greatly influenced by decades of German visitors and expats, welcomes surfers and kitesurfers throughout the year. They come to take advantage of the Atlantic trade winds that sweep across the ocean, delivering steady swells, abundant sunshine, and a promise of an excellent suntan. For swimmers, however, those same winds can complicate the experience. Thus, we discover a simple trick: waking up early. Before the sails appear on the horizon and boards begin to carve across the bays, the breeze often calms, leaving the water tranquil and luster-like. During these quiet morning hours, the sea transforms into a glassy expanse, perfect for a soul-refreshing open-water swim.
On the island’s remote western coast lies the enigmatic Villa Winter, rumored to have sheltered German U-boat crews during the Second World War, with bullet holes still marked on its walls. Having once called this wild Atlantic outpost home, I returned with a small bag, hoping the Saharan winds would steer clear, avoiding any sandstorms sweeping in from Africa. Ideally, I yearned for skies of blue rather than the crimson hue of dust and sweltering forty-degree heat—even if just for a few days.
Five of Fuerteventura’s Most Spectacular Swim Spots
Fuerteventura boasts some of the most striking open-water swimming in the Atlantic—from serene turquoise lagoons to wild volcanic coastlines. Conditions can shift rapidly, and the ocean here demands respect, but for swimmers willing to choose the right moment, these locations offer crystal-clear water, breathtaking scenery, and an authentic taste of the Canary Islands’ raw Atlantic essence. Here are some of my top picks:
Corralejo & the Grandes Playas – Immerse yourself in wide Atlantic beaches adjacent to the dunes of Dunas de Corralejo Natural Park, where long, clear-water swims await in the early morning hours before the winds crank up. Stunning is an understatement. Hot, is putting it mildly.
El Cotillo Lagoons – Discover natural volcanic lagoons where the Atlantic breaks outside yet leaves glassy turquoise pools within. This is my go-to spot for relatively safe swimming. The lagoons are sheltered and warm, although the water gets deeper as you venture out. Swim slowly, and you may spot rays gliding beneath or flashes of colorful tropical fish—I even spotted an angel shark here once.
Playa de Sotavento – Experience a vast southern lagoon formed at certain tides, perfect for long, relaxed swims, although keep your wits about you as windsurfers and kite surfers often share the water.
Isla de Lobos – Just a short ferry ride away, the lagoon at La Concha offers some of the clearest swimming in the Canary Islands. Teeming with wildlife, this resembles a Spanish Galapagos Isle—a breathtaking destination that matches the wildness of the Atlantic Ocean itself.
Ajuy Sea Caves – Uncover a dramatic stretch of black-sand beach beneath volcanic cliffs, where local swimmers navigate deep Atlantic water—when conditions allow. Approach with caution, as the ocean can shift here, and once swells exceed 15 feet, it may get challenging to maintain your orientation and exit safely. This secret little location is well worth the allure.
Cofete & Villa Winter – Navigate the remote and powerful Atlantic coastline where swimming is only possible on the calmest days—but feels unforgettable when conditions align. This truly isolated stretch of shore demands respect for the ocean, and it’s best to go with someone who knows the area well.
Local Attractions
Upon leaving the water—or simply enjoying a shoulder break between swims—Fuerteventura has plenty to explore on land. From volcanic craters and dramatic caves to quiet inland ravines and small museums that narrate the island’s maritime history, these stops provide insight into the landscape and culture that enrich life here beyond the shoreline. Here are a few key attractions to consider:
One of Fuerteventura’s most remarkable hikes, the Ajuy sea caves combine black sand, crashing Atlantic waves, and some of the oldest rock in the Canaries. The cliff path is short but memorable, offering elemental views best experienced in the late afternoon when the light softens, enriching the ocean’s theatrical quality. The caves themselves are part of a protected natural monument. Budget: Free entry; expect to spend €0–€10 on parking, coffee, or a post-walk cerveza.
For your one volcanic stop, make it Calderón Hondo. This well-preserved crater promises easy yet rewarding walks with sweeping views over the island’s stunning northern landscape. Aim for early mornings or sunset unless you fancy a little sunburn from the affectionate island heat. Budget: Free if you go independently; approximately €0–€8 for parking/snacks.
Museo de las Salinas del Carmen
For a slower, more cultural experience, this salt museum illustrates the island’s maritime heritage with restored salt pans and sea-facing vistas that feel genuinely cinematic. It’s a great stop between swims if you’re after history devoid of hiking boots. Official adult entry costs around €6, with combination tickets available. Budget: €6 for adults, or €11.50 for the combination ticket.
For something less rugged and more family-friendly, Oasis Wildlife Fuerteventura is a large botanical park that’s a solid all-day destination when you need a break from salt, sun, and neoprene. It’s great for mixed groups where not everyone is keen on hiking. Ticket prices vary by age and package—expect to pay in the mid-range for attractions. Budget: about €41–€45 per adult.
And my hidden gem…Barranco de las Peñitas
Las Peñitas offers the Fuerteventura many visitors overlook: a winding ravine adorned with palms, rock structures, and tales of old island myths nestled in the Betancuria landscape. Its film-set beauty, especially near the chapel and dam, remains far quieter than the popular coastal attractions. Bring sturdy footwear, water, and approach the island humbly, as it appreciates this. Situated within the protected rural park around Betancuria, it’s one of the most enchanting inland escapes. Budget: Free; allocate around €0–€10 for transport and supplies.
Where to Eat
After all that swimming, your appetite will surely demand attention. Fortunately, Fuerteventura’s culinary landscape is simple, fresh, and deeply connected to the sea. From harbor-side fish restaurants to quiet inland kitchens serving traditional Canarian fare, here are a few culinary gems worth your time when it’s time to refuel:
Rompeolas Restaurante, Corralejo
For lunch accompanied by a harbor view, Rompeolas is hard to beat: fresh fish, salty air, and the pleasant assurance that you’re exactly where you need to be. Order whatever caught on the boat that morning while ferries navigate in and out around you. Budget: €30–€45 per person.
La Laja, Morro Jable
This elegant dining spot offers beautifully grilled fish and sophisticated Canarian cuisine after a day spent under the sun. It leans towards an upscale feel without losing its charm, hosting a menu that invites a longer, more leisurely dinner. Budget: €30–€40 per person.
Ajuy Village Restaurants
The unassuming waterfront eateries in Ajuy radiate a simple confidence, focusing on fresh catches from the sea rather than culinary flair. After exploring the caves and black-sand beach, relishing grilled fish here feels less like merely lunch and more like a necessary act of respect. Budget: €20–€30 per person.
And my hidden gem…Casa Marcos, Villaverde
Away from the obvious coastal crowd-pleasers, Casa Marcos offers a local vibe and authentic Canarian cooking, providing a deeper taste of the island’s roots in a cozy, rustic setting. Budget: €25–€40 per person.
Where to Stay
After long, exhilarating days in the Atlantic, having a comfortable place to dry off and recharge enhances the adventure. Fuerteventura caters to various tastes, offering everything from luxurious seaside resorts to laid-back surf lodges. Here are some excellent options for your stay—whether your priority is early swims, sunset dinners, or simply a tranquil night’s sleep after a day in the water:
Secrets Bahía Real Resort & Spa, Corralejo
For a touch of silk-sheet glamour, this resort offers polished luxury right on the water. Secrets Bahía Real features sea views and a spa that might persuade even the most hardened swimmers to stay dry for a while. Budget: €230–€350 per night.
Hotel Riu Palace Jandía
Located on the island’s sunnier southern edge, this resort boasts lengthy beach views and easy access to Morro Jable, perfect for those who enjoy luxurious accommodations after swimming. Budget: €200–€320 per night.
Hotel Rural Mahoh
For a more characterful and rustic stay, Hotel Rural Mahoh provides a charming atmosphere and a slower pace than coastal options. This boutique farmhouse hotel is rooted in the island’s older essence, making it ideal for guests who treasure ambiance over infinity pools. Budget: €120–€160 per night.
Surf Riders Fuerteventura
For those who travel with a towel slung permanently over their shoulder, Surf Riders provides a relaxed, friendly vibe that suits active days and casual evenings by the beach. It’s all about good vibes, fresh sea air, and connections with like-minded water enthusiasts. Budget: €60–€90 per night.
Ben’s Open Ocean Swim Safety Tips:
1. Never swim alone—the ocean, its weather, and currents are unpredictable. Warm water can cool down quickly, as highlighted by ocean safety experts.
2. Always utilize a tow float for visibility—ensure vessels can see you! Ideally, have a kayaker accompany you.
3. Check water temperatures before diving in; ocean water can be surprisingly shocking even in peak summer. Remember to stay cautious!
4. Refrain from swimming after heavy rainstorms, as lurking debris and murky conditions can pose risks.
5. Consult locals, especially if exploring off the beaten track—there may be rip tides and undercurrents that can pose threats. Trust me; I’ve learned the hard way.
6. Respect boat traffic; swim in marked zones, if available—visibility is paramount. Bright swim caps are essential.
7. Don’t mistake distances; the shoreline may appear closer than it truly is.
8. Acclimatize to the island’s waters gradually; there’s no need for heroics. The mix of heat and cold waters can be just as perilous as ice-filled lakes elsewhere.
9. Remain aware of sudden weather changes; this island is surrounded by one of our planet’s most dangerous oceans.
10. Always refuel and rehydrate thoroughly after swimming; hyperthermia is a real risk.
Ben Hooper first made international headlines with what has been described as one of the most ambitious endurance expeditions ever attempted: a plan to swim “every single mile” of the Atlantic Ocean. The journey – roughly 2,000 miles of open water between Senegal and Brazil – was expected to take four months and would have entered the record books. Sir Ranulph Fiennes OBE described the Atlantic as the last great ocean bastion yet to be conquered by a swimmer. The expedition, titled Swim the Big Blue, faced extraordinary challenges. Hooper was once left clinically dead after swimming into thousands of Portuguese Man O’ War tentacles, before recovering and restarting mid-Atlantic. Ultimately the attempt was forced to end when severe weather damaged his support vessel after years of preparation and training. Today, Hooper still holds the only WOWSA-verified attempt to swim the full extent of the Atlantic Ocean.
READ MORE: ‘Diving into… Key West, Florida‘ In this latest installment of his popular Diving into… series for The European, ultra-endurance swimmer and columnist Ben Hooper swaps cold currents and wetsuits for the sun-drenched waters, coral reefs, and easy-going charm of Key West, Florida—where open-water swimming meets island life in technicolor.
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Main image: Playa de Sotavento’s vast tidal lagoon—a shifting patchwork of turquoise shallows and sandbars that draws swimmers, windsurfers, and kitesurfers to Fuerteventura’s southern coast. (Supplied)
