The Mermaid of the Canaries: The Journey of the Carabinero

Rediscovering the Carabinero

The carabinero, or Aristaeopsis edwardsiana, has been somewhat of a hidden treasure in the Canary Islands. Although its presence was recorded in a crustacean catalog back in 1995, it went largely unnoticed by the fishing community. That all changed in 2020 when the Olivero family, fishermen from La Santa in Tinajo, Lanzarote, stumbled upon the first specimens. Since then, this exquisite crustacean has captivated the culinary world with its tender meat and delicate flavor.

The Olivero Legacy

With only three boats measuring under eight meters in length, the Oliveros have monopolized the harvest of this extraordinary catch. Their discreet commitment to sustainability has allowed them to cultivate a thriving market for the carabinero, renowned for its exceptional qualities. Carlos Olivero recounts how his brother, Meme, first located the carabinero. They soon realized the importance of using respectful fishing methods to protect these deep-sea wonders that lurk between 700 and 900 meters beneath the ocean’s surface.

Initially, the family experimented with metal nets, but the fragile carcasses frequently surfaced damaged. Thus began the quest for a gentler approach: a selective gear designed in collaboration with marine biologist José Antonio González, better known as Pepe Solea. This collaboration has enabled the Oliveros to broaden the scope of their fishing endeavors, even inspiring a few other fishers in the area to join the venture.

The Rich Ecosystem of La Santa

Pepe Solea suggests that the Agadir submarine canyon might be providing nutrient-rich waters and organic matter to the ocean floors around La Santa, potentially boosting the local population of carabinero. Unfortunately, Solea notes a lack of public engagement that hinders more extensive scientific studies of this remarkable species.

Culinary Adventures

The carabinero is celebrated not just for its unique flavor but also for the ecosystem it represents. Chefs across the Canary Islands have embraced this crustacean, creating dishes that honor its freshness and delicacy. The average price for carabinero today is around 80 euros per kilogram, and the majority of catches end up in the restaurants across the islands, where recipes are painstakingly crafted to highlight its stunning attributes.

In La Santa, one cannot miss El Quemao, a local bar famous for its vibrant atmosphere and exceptional seafood. Here, the carabinero can be enjoyed grilled, fried, or even in rich rice dishes, all while sipping a cold beer under the open skies.

Culinary Creations Across the Islands

From Lanzarote to Gran Canaria, the flavors of carabinero are explored in various innovative ways. Santi Beneitez from the restaurant Sebe in Costa Teguise notes that each carabinero dish embodies a complex ecosystem and a deep respect for the ocean.

At Sebe, the carabinero is paired with chorizo from Teror, grilled to perfection and finished tableside for a dramatic dining experience. Meanwhile, Víctor Valverde at Palacio Ico ingeniously combines the crustacean with creative techniques like sous-vide, introducing a brand-new twist to the dining scene.

Rigoberto Almeida at El Pellizco in Fuerteventura takes a different route by poaching the carabinero and serving it on a kelp demi-glace. This approach adds layers of flavor, showcasing not only the crustacean’s natural sweetness but also the ingenuity of local chefs.

The Magic of Tradition and Innovation

Moreover, chefs like Diego Schattenhoffer at Taste 1973 are pushing the boundaries of culinary exploration by combining cutting-edge techniques with traditional flavors. His risotto incorporates carabinero head juices, adding an intense umami dimension that resonates with the rich history of the Canary culinary scene.

A Symbol of Sustainability

Despite the challenges posed by environmental factors, the Olivero family has maintained their commitment to sustainability, ensuring that carabineros and other seafood treasures from La Santa continue to be a celebrated symbol of Lanzarote.

As one explores the depths of this vibrant fishing community, it’s clear that the carabinero is not merely an ingredient but a testament to the delicate balance between human innovation and ecological respect. Through and through, this flavorful crustacean carries the essence of the Canarian sea, inviting everyone to savor its remarkable offerings.