The Heritage of Goat Herding in Betancuria: A Journey with Vicente Hernández Santana

Nestled along the scenic coast of Betancuria lies a tranquil expanse where the sounds of nature paint a vivid backdrop: the rustle of the wind, the playful bleats of young goats, and the rhythmic waves crashing against Peña La Vieja. This is the realm where livestock roam freely, known as the communal lands, overseen by none other than Vicente Hernández Santana. With half a century of experience tending to these herds, Vicente’s deep-rooted connection to the land and its animals defines the art of goat herding on the island of Fuerteventura.

Vicente: A Custodian of Tradition

At 79 years old, Vicente stands as a living testament to the age-old traditions of goat herding. His sharp eyes spot a newly born kid hidden beneath a rocky outcrop, showcasing his intimate knowledge of the terrain and its inhabitants. His journey began at just eleven years old when he first chased after livestock during a communal event called the “apañada” in Monteagudo. This pivotal moment ignited a lifelong passion, leading him to participate in every goat herding event in Fuerteventura since then.

In 1975, Vicente was appointed as the commissioner of the coastal region of Betancuria. Moving here at the age of twelve alongside his large family of nine siblings, Vicente embraced a life entwined with the land and livestock. Settling under the shadow of La Atalayeja, he has remained steadfast, a constant presence amidst the ebb and flow of life in Betancuria.

The Heart of Goat Herding: The “Apanadas”

Vicente’s contributions to the goat herding culture of Fuerteventura are profound. The island’s goat herding calendar revolves around the “apañadas,” a gathering of goats conducted four to five times a year from February onward. The council recently recognized this tradition as a “Bien de Interés Cultural” (Cultural Asset), solidifying its importance to Fuerteventura’s heritage.

The process of an apañada begins at dawn, around 8:00 AM, to avoid the scorching sun. Vicente, as the lead commissioner, divides participants into teams, mixing experienced herders with novices to optimize the process. This careful organization ensures that the goats are herded skillfully and efficiently, preventing exhaustion among the animals.

The Gambuesas: Gathering Places for Goats

Three distinct gathering places known as “gambuesas” serve as central hubs for the herding activities: Llano del Sombrero, Gambuesa Nueva, and Janey. Each site holds its unique history and significance, with Gambuesa Nueva—a location shrouded in mystery regarding its origins—being the focus of many community gatherings.

While at the Gambuesa Nueva, Vicente reflects on his numerous journeys across Fuerteventura’s mountains, embodying the spirit of a proud herder. He is not only a keeper of goats but also a guardian of local lore, wielding a knife and wearing a black hat that symbolizes his connection to this way of life.

Managing the Herd: Daily Responsibilities and Challenges

Each apañada has specific tasks, from herding to identifying newborns and confirming their lineage. Vicente articulates the importance of marking each kid before separating them from the herd for their safety. With approximately 400 kids born this year alone, careful attention to their well-being is paramount.

The challenges of herding have evolved over the years, especially with the scarcity of resources. Vicente recounts how, during favorable years, livestock sustained themselves from the abundant natural resources, whereas recent years have necessitated external feeding support due to reduced pasture viability.

Embracing Change: The Future of Goat Herding

Vicente emphasizes the significance of adaptation in the face of hardships. He remains ever grateful for the support of the Cabildo de Fuerteventura, which has provided subsidies crucial for feeding the goats during tougher times. A nearby water source, created by local herders, ensures the goats remain hydrated without much effort.

Furthermore, Vicente invites the younger generation to grasp the essence of goat herding, emphasizing the importance of tradition. His enthusiasm resonates with stories of school visits, where students learn about the culinary delights that goat meat can offer and engage in women-led apañadas, blending education with cultural appreciation.

The Essence of “Soltura”

As Vicente cradles a kid in his arms for photographs, he proudly announces it as a “berrendo” (a specific goat breed). His love for the trade is undeniable. “I wouldn’t trade goat herding for the world,” he affirms, mentioning how goats do not grant days off but yield immense joy and purpose through freedom.

In Vicente’s view, the essence of goat herding lies in “soltura,” or freedom. He passionately articulates that goats thrive in open spaces, nurturing themselves naturally as opposed to being confined. This principle shapes his practices, highlighting a profound recognition of what it means to raise livestock sustainably.

Final Insights from the Gambuesa Nueva

Before departing, Vicente shares a gem of wisdom about the stones placed strategically around Gambuesa Nueva; they prevent flooding by channeling rainwater effectively. This practical knowledge reflects his lifelong dedication to maintaining the balance between nature and agriculture.

As one of the six commissioners on Fuerteventura, Vicente stands ready for future endeavors, all while cherishing the foundational traditions of goat herding. His commitment to preserving this rich heritage serves as an enduring reminder of the connection between people, land, and the animals they nurture.

The invitation remains open: “When I go to gather the goats next time, I’ll let you know.” With this, Vicente invites all to witness the age-old traditions that pulse vibrantly in the heart of Betancuria.