The Rich Flavor of Fuerteventura: A Dive into Local Delicacies
Fuerteventura, one of the stunning Canary Islands, is not just a feast for the eyes with its breathtaking beaches and rugged landscapes but also a delight for the palate. Among the standout offerings of its vibrant gastronomy is the morena, or moray eel, which sits proudly alongside staples like gofio, goat meat, and Majorero cheese. Each of these iconic products contributes to the unique culinary identity of the island.
The Moray Eel: A Culinary Gem
The moray eel’s most popular preparation is fried, transforming it into a captivating dish reminiscent of a crispy marine torrezno. When well-prepared, the exterior is crunchy while the inside remains juicy—a perfect balance achieved through the harmonious blend of flesh, fat, and skin. However, be wary; a poorly executed dish may leave you battling through bones, turning enjoyment into a frustrating experience. To avoid this, many opt for “chips de morena,” a finer version that offers the same delicious flavors with less hassle.
Maricarmen Martos, a seasoned culinary figure from Donostia, has mastered the art of preparing morena chips. She recounts the meticulous process: “First, you have to clean it—remove all the bones and freeze it flat. Then, cut it thinly, coat it in flour, and fry it in very hot high oleic oil until it sizzles.” Her love for the dish shines as she reflects on her journey since moving to Fuerteventura for love in 2014.
Mastering the Art of Deboning
Deboning the moray is crucial for producing a delectable dish. Maricarmen explains the technique: “You start by cutting off the head, opening it up, and removing the central spine and the lateral bones.” She notes the existence of two types of morena—a less fatty black variant and the richer blonde type, which she favors for her chips due to its higher fat content.
A Culinary Education Begins
Maricarmen’s culinary journey began at the age of 24 in the restaurant Anastasio in Irún, where she entered the kitchen with minimal experience but plenty of determination. “I used to cook for eight people every Sunday by the age of 14,” she reminisces. Her eagerness is evident as she shares how she cleverly secured her first job by learning recipes overnight: “I told my instructor I could make sole meunière, and after a quick study from a book, I nailed it. She believed I had been doing it forever!”
This experience underlined her culinary education and laid a strong foundation for her future endeavors.
The Dance of Family and Career
Life took a pause for Maricarmen when she became a mother, dedicating herself to raising her daughter. However, she returned to the kitchen and gained further experience at Ganbara in Pasajes San Juan before eventually moving to Fuerteventura, where she worked at Acorralado, a pincho bar in El Cotillo.
Now, at El Ancla, a quaint restaurant facing Playa del Muellito, Maricarmen’s culinary skills shine through dishes like morena, tiny Fuerteventura shrimp, and a variety of traditional Canarian bites. “They are very small but flavorful,” she says of the shrimp, highlighting the island’s rich seafood offerings alongside wrinkled potatoes and the cherished mojo sauce.
A Fusion of Flavors
Maricarmen blends her Basque heritage seamlessly into her kitchen. She serves dishes like bacalao confitado and deliciously stuffed peppers, along with her much-loved mussel tigres—filled with fresh vegetables and a secret ingredient she holds close to her heart. Her Basque-style cheesecake, “estilo La Viña,” is another testament to her roots.
Accompanying these delightful dishes is the second vintage of El Follón—an exclusive “author wine” made from volcanic malvasía. Domingo, Maricarmen’s partner, crafts this wine in collaboration with an enologist from El Grifo in Lanzarote. Maricarmen expresses pride in Domingo’s passion: “It’s his dream, and soon we’ll also open a new restaurant called El Lío in that locality.”
Looking Forward
At El Lío, guests will find a similar vibe to El Ancla, but with a refined focus on grilled fish. Maricarmen hints at a culinary adventure that awaits, promising a delightful experience blending her morena chips with Domingo’s wine. This culinary journey is but a reflection of the vibrant gastronomic landscape of Fuerteventura—a place where tradition meets innovation, flavor meets culture, and every meal tells a story.
