Discovering the Wine Revival of Fuerteventura: The Story of Pedro Martín Hernández and Bodega Conatus
Fuerteventura, one of the stunning Canary Islands, has slowly risen in prominence on the global wine map, thanks in large part to the efforts of Pedro Martín Hernández and his venture, Bodega Conatus. In a candid interview with La Voz de Fuerteventura on Radio Insular, Pedro shared the surprising journey that led him to establish a winery, ignited by what he calls “prescription medicine.”
A Doctor’s Recommendation
Pedro’s foray into winemaking began unexpectedly. After years of pouring his heart and soul into La Luna, a local restaurant, he found himself on the brink of health issues. A stern warning from his doctor in Madrid made him choose between continuing the demanding restaurant business or safeguarding his health. “It was a clear ultimatum,” Pedro recalls, “the restaurant or my well-being.”
With this pivotal decision, he turned to a piece of land inherited from his parents. What started as a means of relaxation blossomed into an unanticipated adventure in viticulture. “I started out without any grand plans. Since I enjoyed red wine, I began to plant vines,” he shared with a touch of nostalgia.
The First Harvest
Years later, Pedro was met with the delightful surprise of 400 to 500 vines full of grapes but lacked a clear path forward. It was then he crossed paths with Alberto González, an experienced winemaker who posed a critical question: “Do you wish to make wine for friends or establish a true winery to craft quality wine?” The choice was straightforward for Pedro; he wanted to create something meaningful that would honor Fuerteventura’s winemaking legacy, once known as “the vineyard of Hannibal.”
From that moment on, the first wine bearing the Conatus label was produced in 2015-2016, marking the beginning of a journey characterized by growth and increased quality. Alongside these advancements came significant investments as Pedro sought to launch his innovative winery. He candidly shared his struggles, including financial burdens, but remains steadfastly optimistic about future success.
Beyond Wine Production: Enotourism
Pedro’s vision stretches beyond just wine production. He emphasizes that “the business doesn’t solely hinge on creating wine; it’s about immersing in enotourism and doing it well to attract notable clients to Fuerteventura.” Bodega Conatus offers guided tours, special events, weddings, and wine tastings, aiming for a comprehensive experiential offering that showcases the unique flavors of the island.
However, Pedro highlights that, while the price may be appealing to customers, the production costs are substantial. “Selling wine at a good price is tricky since crafting a bottle in Fuerteventura can be expensive, costing around 11 or 12 euros,” he explains.
Recognition and Successful Ventures
The fruits of Pedro’s labor have not gone unnoticed. Conatus was among the pioneers in achieving Denomination of Origin status, and their wines continue to garner international recognition. They are not alone in this pursuit; other winemakers like Gavias del Sordo have also joined the ranks of Fuerteventura’s prestigious wine producers.
Overcoming Challenges in Viticulture
Despite the growing success, the road ahead is fraught with challenges. One significant hurdle is the scarcity of adequate water for cultivation. “Here in the north, the available water has a very high pH, which complicates irrigation,” Pedro explains, although he remains hopeful that southern irrigation methods could be replicated in the north.
Moreover, Pedro highlights additional structural issues on the island, including a shortage of skilled labor and a crisis in housing. Nevertheless, the excitement and aspiration remain vibrant, not just for Pedro, but for a new generation of winemakers eager to see Fuerteventura regain its historical prominence.
A Collaborative Spirit Among Winemakers
“There’s quite a buzz around winemaking; I believe there are many who make wine, perhaps just a little for themselves,” he notes. He also acknowledges the efforts of fellow producers like Miguel of Gavias del Sordo, Miguel in Tetir, and Leonardo. “We enjoy a friendly rivalry. Winning is great, but we strive to improve every day,” Pedro adds, showcasing a sense of community among local vineyards.
A Call for Institutional Support
As the conversation progresses, Pedro reflects on the importance of institutional support for local winemakers. “I hope that authorities will take note of our efforts and continue to extend their support,” he concludes, underscoring the need for collaboration to ensure Fuerteventura’s wine industry flourishes.
Pedro’s journey not only exemplifies resilience in the face of adversity but also paints a hopeful picture of a thriving viticultural renaissance on the beautiful island of Fuerteventura.
