The Toll of the Omicron Wave on Fuerteventura’s Culinary Scene

Los teléfonos de los restaurantes en Fuerteventura began ringing in mid-October, filled with hope and reservations for holiday gatherings. Families and friends excitedly sought tables for Christmas dinners and festive reunions. However, as discussions of a sixth wave emerged and cases began to spike, that same excitement shifted dramatically. Reservations began to dwindle as swiftly as they had come, leading to cancellations that would impact the entire culinary scene on the island.

A Grievous December for Island Restaurateurs

Hotel operators estimated a staggering 50% loss in business compared to pre-pandemic figures from 2019. December, typically a vital month for restaurants, turned into a grueling experience for several cheerful establishments. Demian Zambrana, owner of La Jaira de Demian, celebrated its seventh anniversary in 2022. He had high hopes for the festive season, having filled almost every weekend leading up to Christmas. However, as December unfolded, new restrictions imposed by the Government of the Canary Islands forced him to face the sound of cancellations ringing through his restaurant, robbing him of his Christmas cheer.

Just days into December, the Government decided to shift Fuerteventura back to Level 3 amid rising COVID-19 cases. The constraints included a significant reduction in capacity and limiting table sizes to six diners. For many restaurateurs who had already invested heavily in holiday preparations, it felt like a dagger to the heart—plans meticulously laid out came crashing down.

The Ripple Effect: Cancellations and Losses

Demian recalls having around 12 large group reservations for December, only to see them all fall through. “Every day, a group called to cancel,” he lamented, reflecting on the difficulties faced. The decline didn’t just stop at family gatherings; corporate dinners vanished as well, completely altering the landscape of holiday bookings. Gustavo Astrada, president of Fuerte Gourmet, noted that many companies avoided hosting gatherings for fear of spreading illness among employees—a stark contrast to previous years.

In areas heavily reliant on tourism, the holiday season serves as a balm for the slow months. “The December period used to help offset foreign visitor declines,” Gustavo explained, highlighting the devastating impact the new cancellations created in an already challenging year.

Breaking Point: The Final Days of 2022

By the time New Year’s Eve arrived, there was a lingering sense of disappointment. Despite having numerous reservations in October, persistent cancellations continued pouring in leading up to the day. Astrada’s restaurant, La Mamma, felt the impact firsthand when just half an hour before the midnight feast, the phone rang incessantly with last-minute cancellations due to positive COVID-19 tests. The stark difference was palpable—previously, the restaurant’s capacity would cater for two full turns, while this year, only 87 meals were served.

Fuerteventura’s restaurant scene faced ongoing uncertainty, compounded by a lack of clarity on future restrictions impacting both domestic and foreign tourism. As the Omicron wave peaked, expectations were dashed, leaving establishments to grapple with stock that remained untouched—food rotting in storage.

The Financial Fallout and the Lack of Support

With January typically presenting a financial slump, this year felt particularly crushing. Antonio de León of El Cangrejo Colorao chose not to tally the losses from December but knew they exceeded 60%. “I had every weekend fully booked, expecting business to thrive,” he recalled, expressing how ominous the start of 2023 felt.

Despite approaching the government for aid, Antonio only received limited support—6,000 euros, which barely covered running costs. Gustavo echoed similar sentiments, decrying the difficulties in accessing financial help, resulting in helpless restaurateurs juggling mounting debts with urgent operational needs.

With a heavy reliance on family and friends, Edilia Pérez and her sister Yareli bravely opened La Puipana in the capital city of El Charco. In spite of the rising challenges, they clung to the hope that their unique concept and commitment to local produce would help them weather the storm.

The Debate Over Safety Measures

A turbulent dialogue emerged surrounding the introduction of health certificates for indoor dining. While some welcomed the initiative as a prudent measure, others bristled at the inconvenience it brought. Gustavo observed how patrons sometimes reacted unfavorably when asked to comply, illustrating the conflict restaurateurs faced between enforcing regulations and maintaining customer relationships.

Demian articulated the emotional toll of navigating such circumstances: “It’s exhausting to explain limits and restrictions daily. Our goal should be to provide comfort, not to act as enforcers.”

As discussions regarding pandemic-related challenges continue to unfold, the resilience of Fuerteventura’s culinary community remains evident. The hope for an improvement in the coming months prevails as they grapple with a reality altered by uncertainty, restrictions, and an industry in flux, while maintaining the creativity and passion that fundamentally define their businesses.