Along the West Coast of Fuerteventura Between the Sea and the Mountains

There are two stunning routes to reach the idyllic beaches of Sotavento de Jandía, renowned worldwide for their fine sands washed by turquoise waters. The first option is to take the straight road that descends like a backbone through the island—the F-20. The second is to veer west, traveling through the **Rural Park of Betancuria and the western coast of Pájara**, a mountainous landscape where crowds and all-inclusive hotel chains are non-existent.

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Drive through Fuerteventura, the island of paradisiacal beaches and more

BETANCURIA, HISTORICAL CAPITAL OF CANARY ISLANDS

César Manrique had a keen eye when designing the **Morro Velosa lookout**, located at the top of mount Tegú, just 9 kilometers before reaching the center of Betancuria. The panoramic view showcasing its undulating volcanic alignment is breathtaking. Here, take a moment to enjoy the 669 meters of elevation, explore the Interpretation Center, and look through the telescopes available.

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Once in Betancuria, it’s hard to believe that this village, with just over a hundred inhabitants, was once the historical capital of the Canary Islands from 1404 to 1834. Its historical artistic ensemble attests to this. The architecture features either white masonry or traditional Arab tile, with scattered palm trees adding character. The **Iglesia de Santa María** boasts an exquisite roof, notable sepulchral slabs on the floor, and a sacred art museum inside. Meanwhile, the **Casa Santa María** serves as a restaurant, exhibition space, and handicraft center, where visitors can observe the art of calar and weaving.

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Before leaving Betancuria, make sure to stop by **Finca Pepe**, a local goat farm where you can buy up to eight different types of cheese, vacuum-sealed and perfect for souvenirs.

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THE RUSTIC ESSENCE OF PÁJARA

The road continues through passes and viewpoints toward Pájara. The winding path transforms into a joyous experience. Two kilometers past the diversion to Vega de Río Palmas, stop at the **Mourning Squirrel viewpoint**, arguably the best spot for capturing these adorable and hungry rodents while they are under the watchful eyes of vultures soaring above. Further along, many drivers halt once again to photograph what is affectionately called the **Mount of the Breast**, generating a few chuckles due to its clear analogy.

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Despite being the largest municipality on the island, Pájara oozes rustic essence with its whitewashed homes. Here, **Ajuy beach** triumphs with a fishing village vibe and affordable seafood restaurants. If you’re eager to explore the oldest geology in the Canaries, take a stroll through the caves and cliffs until you reach a stone arch called **El Jurado**.

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BEACHES AND STARS AT COSTA CALMA

The road to Costa Calma oddly resembles a dune landscape. Thanks to its lack of light pollution, a **Sisacumbre viewpoint** with a sundial and star map has been established here. The houses of La Pared hint at the isthmus of the same name, a five-kilometer narrow stretch that once isolated the Jandía peninsula, which was believed to be protected by a wall. Make sure to head down to **Viejo Rey beach** to experience something akin to the famous Cofete beach.

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The journey comes to an end—swimsuit in hand—as you make contact with the eastern coastline of Fuerteventura. After Costa Calma, take the turnoff to Hotel Los Gorriones, right where the **sandy stretch of Barca beach** unfolds, a hotspot for windsurfers.

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HOW TO GET TO FUERTEVENTURA?

Fuerteventura Airport, located 5 kilometers from the capital, **Puerto del Rosario**, is connected to several Spanish cities with carriers such as Iberia, Air Europa, Vueling, Ryanair, and Norwegian Air Shuttle. **Inter-island flights** are continuous with Binter Canarias (bintercanarias.com) and Canaryfly (canaryfly.es). **Betancuria is located 30 kilometers from the airport and 67 kilometers from Costa Calma.** To explore the island, renting a car is the best option.

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WHERE TO STAY AND ENJOY THE GASTRONOMY

In Costa Calma, **Esmeralda Maris** (esmeraldaresorts.com) offers quality bungalows that provide tranquility just 400 meters from the coast, complete with a pool and spa. In Betancuria, you can indulge in delightful **suites** at **Santa María Luxury Rooms** (santamarialuxuryrooms.net).

For a taste of quality cuisine in the area, try **Casa Santa María** (casasantamaria.net), a 17th-century country house featuring a Canarian patio and exposed stone interiors. Their specialized dishes include slow-roasted kid and lamb. At Ajuy beach, **La Jaula de Oro** serves fresh fish, whether fried or grilled, paired with salad and wrinkled potatoes at budget-friendly prices.