Discovering Girona: A Culinary Haven in Catalonia

If you’ve been to Catalonia, you’ve likely wandered through the bustling streets of Barcelona. However, with the city grappling with historic overtourism, many locals and travelers are yearning for a quieter escape. While some head south to the golden sands of Costa Dorada, the real culinary adventure awaits up the coast in Girona, renowned for its stunning aquamarine coves and celebrated chefs.

The Bounty of Empordà

Culinary talent is drawn to Girona due to its rich agricultural landscape. In the northeastern region of Empordà, you’ll find a delightful mix of apple orchards, olive groves, rice paddies, and vineyards. Inland, La Garrotxa boasts fertile volcanic lands and dairy farms that produce local specialties like white Santa Pau beans and red turnips. Meanwhile, the coastal fish markets of Palamós, L’Escala, and Roses offer the freshest catch from the Mediterranean, ready to be transformed into culinary masterpieces.

The Roca Brothers: Culinary Icons

The city of Girona is perhaps best known for the Roca brothers—head chef Joan, pastry chef Jordi, and sommelier Josep—who run the three-Michelin-starred El Celler de Can Roca. This restaurant has been named the World’s Best Restaurant twice, in 2013 and 2015. The Rocas have expanded their culinary empire in Girona, establishing a natural wine bar, a Catalan comfort restaurant, a chocolate factory, and even a boutique hotel. Their latest venture is set in a converted fortress on the city’s outskirts, showcasing their commitment to innovation and sustainability.

A Rising Star: Les Cols

Just an hour away in the medieval town of Olot, chef Fina Puigdevall and her three daughters are making waves at Les Cols, where they celebrate the volcanic cuisine of the Garrotxa region. Martina, the middle daughter, was named Young Chef of the Year by the Spanish Michelin Guide in 2024, further solidifying the family’s reputation in the culinary world.

Beyond Fine Dining: A Culinary Landscape

While Girona is home to Michelin-starred establishments, it also offers a plethora of casual dining options. A drive around the region reveals charming tapas joints, beach shacks serving delicious paella, and local village restaurants that capture the essence of Catalan cuisine.

What’s the Food Like in Girona?

Girona and its surroundings are the perfect places to experience authentic Catalan food. The best time to visit is between March and November, when the region’s produce is at its peak. In the fall, hearty stews and soups take center stage, while spring brings a vibrant array of fresh vegetables. Summer is ideal for enjoying beachside restaurants paired with crisp local wines.

One of the highlights of the region is paella, or arroz, often made with local rice from Pals. Many variations feature squid, shrimp, and mussels, or a Catalan surf-and-turf style known as mar i muntanya, which combines monkfish with wild mushrooms or chicken with crayfish.

Another essential dish is pa amb tomàquet, Catalonia’s national dish of bread with tomato, typically served with anchovies from L’Escala or various sausages like butifarra and fuet. Other local delights include escalivada (grilled vegetables), escudella i carn d’olla (a hearty meat and vegetable stew), and xató, a salad made with curled endives, black olives, and salted cod.

Sweet Treats

No meal is complete without dessert. Girona is famous for its flan, mel i mató (fresh goat cheese with honey), crema Catalana (a custard with a caramelized top), and xuixo, a sweet cream-filled donut that is a local specialty.

Where to Eat in Girona

El Celler de Can Roca and Esperit Roca

El Celler de Can Roca is a must-visit for food enthusiasts. This fine dining establishment has earned its place in culinary history, offering a menu that reflects the essence of Catalonia. Recently, the Rocas opened Esperit Roca, which quickly garnered a Michelin star, making it a fantastic alternative for those unable to secure a reservation at Celler.

Vii, Normal, and Rocambolesc

The Rocas’ other ventures are equally impressive. Vii is a wine bar with an extensive list of over 1,000 wines, while Normal focuses on traditional Catalan dishes. For dessert, Rocambolesc offers a whimsical selection of sweets crafted by Jordi Roca.

La Gastronòmica

For an authentic local experience, La Gastronòmica is the place to be. The Palamós fish market is renowned for its fresh seafood, particularly the famous red shrimp. Visitors can also enjoy culinary experiences on a vintage wooden boat, sampling local delicacies while sailing along the coast.

Les Cols

At Les Cols, Fina Puigdevall and her daughters create a unique dining experience that highlights local, seasonal ingredients. Their tasting menu features dishes that reflect the region’s natural landscape, showcasing the best of La Garrotxa.

Can Font

For a traditional Catalan breakfast, Can Font offers a hearty selection of fried and grilled meats, perfect for fueling a day of exploration.

Toc al Mar

If you’re looking for a casual seaside dining experience, Toc al Mar is a popular chiringuito known for its fresh seafood and paella, all cooked over a wood fire.

The Best Girona Hotels for Food Lovers

Esperit Roca

Set in a 19th-century fortress, Esperit Roca offers a luxurious stay with a focus on culinary excellence. The hotel features a spa, an extensive wine cellar, and two tasting menus that highlight the Rocas’ signature dishes.

Casa Cacao

Stay at Casa Cacao, a boutique hotel located above the Roca family’s chocolate factory. Guests can enjoy panoramic views and a breakfast that’s considered one of the best in the city.

Can Mascort

In the medieval center of Palafrugell, Can Mascort offers a charming stay with a focus on local, organic breakfast options.

Hostal de la Gavina

For a touch of luxury, Hostal de la Gavina in S’Agaró boasts a rich history and a culinary director from a Michelin-starred restaurant, ensuring a memorable dining experience.

With its rich culinary heritage, stunning landscapes, and vibrant local culture, Girona stands as a testament to the beauty and diversity of Catalonia. Whether you’re indulging in fine dining or exploring local markets, this region promises a feast for the senses.